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The two excerpts presented here are drawn from Chone Gottesfeld’s travelogue and describe events in Skala, a small Galician town in the Second Polish Republic. In these passages, the author contrasts his experiences of Skala from his youth with what he encountered upon returning many years later after emigrating. His observations illuminate the complex processes through which modern Jewish identity took shape. Both excerpts recount events in which the author himself participated. The central theme of each fragment is the comparison between past and present experiences, which reveals how the politicization of the Jewish population in the Galician province unfolded in practice.

The first passage examines the formation of the political worldview of a city cobbler. Having once worked in a large city, he absorbed political views and perspectives that earned him the label of “modern” among his peers. Upon returning to his native shtetl, he eagerly shared his newfound insights with the students of the beit midrash, speaking passionately about Herzl, Zionism, socialism, Turkey, the Jewish pogroms in the Russian Empire, and his impressions of the play Bar Kokhba. These conversations illustrate how the mental landscape of Galician Jews evolved during the interwar period: Palestine shifted in their consciousness from a mere biblical symbol to a concrete political project; the memory of the pogroms in the Russian Empire — events that had taken place more than two decades earlier — remained deeply embedded in the collective awareness; and political ideas gradually penetrated even the remote provinces. Political parties in these areas often struggled with significant obstacles, including inadequate infrastructure, unsystematic education, limited funding, and a shortage of active supporters. The excerpt not only highlights the sporadic and prolonged nature of this process but also underscores its dependence on dedicated individuals — passionate figures capable of inspiring and leading others.

The second excerpt offers insight into the author’s perspective on the socio-political history of the region. Using the example of the post office, he illustrates the shifting role of key public spaces in a small town: during the Austrian period, the post office served as a vital hub for public discussions, but its significance waned in the interwar years. Together, the two excerpts reveal the conditions under which political ideologies gained adherents in such communities, and how deeply these processes were shaped by the prevailing information environment.

The author of the travelogue observes a striking shift in attitudes toward Palestine: from a distant, almost imaginary vision of a Jewish state to tangible, real-world practices of emigration there. This transformation in how Galician Jews perceived Palestine, as documented by the author, unfolded over the course of four decades. It demanded sustained and concerted efforts from various political movements, including the General Zionists, Mizrachi, Poale Zion, and Hitahdut. Beyond these ideological forces, other critical factors played a role: the severe economic hardships following the First World War, the trauma of numerous pogroms, and the growing wave of anti-Semitism in the Second Polish Republic.

The formation of modern Jewish political consciousness in Galicia has been extensively studied by historian Joshua Shanes. In his work, Shanes traces the development of Jewish nationalism beyond the Zionist movement and examines its interactions with other political currents. His research demonstrates how politicization unfolded among various segments of the Jewish population in Galician towns, including Stryi, Tarnów, Sniatyn, Kolomyia, and Brody. Shanes was among the first scholars to analyze the emergence of political self-identity not only through public declarations — such as those found in newspapers and party programs — but also through concrete everyday practices. He highlights how diverse political trends coexisted and how they interacted with one another in these provincial settings.

Title:

“We are all Zionists, because we would all run away from here at the first opportunity”: a travelogue from Skala in 1937

Author:
Chone Gottesfeld
Year:
1937
Source:
Chone Gottesfeld, Mayn rayze iber Galitsye. New York: Faraynigṭe Galitsianer Idn in Ameriḳa, 1937, 61-63, 88-95
Original language:
Yiddish

A Modern Cobbler

“Sholom aleichem, do you recognize me?”

His voice rang familiar, very familiar. But I couldn’t place it at first. Then he gave his name, and it all came back to me instantly. His appearance had changed completely. Back then he was middle-aged; now he was an old man. He had once stood tall and bold; now he was stooped. But his voice remained the same, still strong and resonant.

In the city they called him “the modern cobbler,” because he was a cobbler by trade and because he was seen as a modern man. The reason was simple: he had spent some time working in the big city and returned with astonishing stories that stirred the entire shtetl.

I remember it as if it were yesterday: we were sitting in the beit midrash, bent over the Gemara, with no real interest in studying. Then in walked the “modern cobbler.” He stood there and began telling us about the wonders and marvels of the great city.

He spoke of the Zionist movement, of Dr. Herzl, a doctor with a magnificent beard, who wanted to purchase the Holy Land from the Turks and give it to the Jews. Then the Jews would have their own homeland, with their own king or president, just like in America. And if the Tsar ever organized a pogrom against the Jews, the Jewish king or president would send him a stern letter: “You Russian pig, scum, hooligan — how dare you beat the Jews? If you do it again, we will arrest every Russian here in the Land of Israel. And unless you repent sincerely and soon, I will have no choice but to take the most severe measures.”

We were all thrilled by the idea. A lively debate quickly broke out among us over what kind of leader the Jewish state should have: a king or a president. Only one person — the rabbi’s son — supported the idea of a king. The rest of us favored a president and a republic. The modern cobbler, however, cut the debate short before we could settle the question of monarchy versus republic. Instead, he turned to another movement — the socialist one. He explained how the socialists wanted to take wealth from the rich and distribute it equally among the people. There would be no more poor and rich, no more oppressors and oppressed. Everyone would be equal!

We certainly liked this idea.

“That is very fair,” we all exclaimed.

Even those who favored monarchy in Palestine, including the rabbi’s son, were deeply enthusiastic about this idea of equality.

But that was not all. The modern cobbler had also seen a Jewish play called Bar Kokhba performed in the big city. He remembered every word and recounted it vividly to us. He didn’t just recite the lines—he sang them too, and if my memory serves me right, he sang beautifully. He would belt out with such force: “I am Bar Kokhba, the Jewish hero!” And in that moment, we truly felt as if the legendary Jewish hero Bar Kokhba — who had defeated the Romans — stood before us.

His heroic posture and powerful voice fit the role perfectly.

That was why his voice sounded so familiar to me. The moment he revealed who he was, it instantly transported me back to my schoolboy days and the time I first heard him sing a song from that Jewish play.

How Jews Wait for a Letter: The Modern Postman

From the very first day I spent back in my town, I felt an overwhelming urge to visit the post office just as the postman was about to depart with the letters. The image of Jews gathered there, waiting for the postman, has never left my memory. I can still see it as vividly as if it were happening right now. They would arrive an hour early, before the postman set off, so they’d have plenty of time to talk.

And who didn’t show up there! Oil industrialists (back then, the town still had active oil production), owners of textile shops and merchants; sons-in-law on kest with plenty of free time, confident they wouldn’t leave empty-handed because they subscribed to the daily German newspaper Neue Freie Presse (New Free Press) or the Viennese Tagblatt (Daily Press). There were also young Zionists waiting for Zionist newspapers or Hebrew booklets, and socialists eager for a socialist newspaper. 

Even I, still quite young at the time, was already receiving mail. I had ordered book catalogs and trial issues of newspapers (both German- and Hebrew-language papers sent one free trial copy).

But they didn’t come to the post office only for newspapers or letters. Representatives of every political party in the shtetl gathered there.

For the merchants, it served as a kind of informal stock exchange. For the Zionist youths, the maskilim, and the sons-in-law on kest, it was a battlefield where they fiercely defended their opinions. It was never dull there. The fiercest quarrels erupted precisely over Palestine. The Zionists fought their battles armed with editorials they had carefully studied in the Zionist newspapers.

The Zionist opponents had one — a son-in-law on kest — who countered Zionist ideas with sharp, well-timed jokes. He truly knew how to deliver a punchline. For instance, he would mock the way people sang “Od lo avoda,” and his quips would spark uproarious laughter that left the boys utterly speechless. The Zionists had no one who could respond with a joke on the spot. It was only on their second visit that they came better prepared. This time, they brought along a boy — the son of a butcher — who wrote letters and articles for Jewish newspapers. He wasn’t a joker like that maskil, but he had a quick and piercing wit. Before the other could land another joke, he would fire back with a cutting remark. Everyone has a weak spot. The opponent would quickly become offended, then furious that the butcher’s son had outwitted him so effortlessly.

As for socialism, at that time no one quarreled over it. There were only a few socialists in the shtetl, and even they didn’t fully grasp what it meant. They simply wished for a representative who could explain it properly.

In other cities, Zionists and socialists were already clashing over their differing views. But here, peace and harmony prevailed between them. The Zionists themselves were eager to hear a socialist speaker. Yet in my time, it was difficult to arrange: the speaker would have had to be brought from Lviv, and the costs covered, something these few socialist supporters could not afford.

Twice a day — in the morning and again in the afternoon — these party gatherings took place near the post office, continuing until the postman emerged and interrupted the debates. The postman, often a Jew and sometimes a Pole, was friendly toward everyone. He would step out carrying a heavy bundle of letters that was hard to manage. He was always grateful when half the letters were taken off his hands right there at the post office. He even allowed people to look through them themselves. Many even helped him sort the foreign postcards.

I remember it well, and that’s exactly why I was so eager to visit the post office and see what was happening there. The first morning, I couldn’t go — the many friends who had come to see me kept me occupied, and I was held up. Finally, in the afternoon, after a bit of a struggle, I managed to slip away from everyone and head to the post office. I went with my cousin Kalman (who absolutely wouldn’t let me go alone) and a few other friends. I didn’t tell them why I was so keen to get there. They assumed I just wanted to see the post office building itself, and they kept saying there was nothing worth seeing.

And here I am at last at the post office. The building itself held no interest for me — it looked almost exactly as it had before, though it seemed smaller now (everything in town, all the houses, appears smaller than it did in my memory). I didn’t see a single person standing there.

I scanned in every direction.

“What are you looking for?” they asked me.

“I’m looking for the people who come to collect the letters,” I replied.

Everyone stared at me in surprise.

“Why would you need to come here to pick up letters?” they asked.

“Why not?” I countered.

“It’s still early,” one of them said. “The postman won’t come out for another fifteen minutes.”

Someone suggested I go inside to see what the post office looked like now.

“No,” I answered. “I want to stay outside. I want to see what happens when the postman comes out.”

“I assure you, there’s nothing worth watching,” my friend told me.

However, I feel that he was wrong. Because I did have something worth watching.

Several Jews have arrived. All of them are dressed in terribly tattered clothes. They introduce themselves to me. When I realize who they are, my heart breaks.

One Jew, with a gray beard, comes running. He runs straight toward me.

“I was told that you had gone to the post office, so I ran here,” he said.

I looked at him, at his gray beard. I couldn’t make out who he is.

“It is I, Nachman-Moshe,” he told me.

I immediately remembered. This was the very man who once got punched near the post office for insulting a Jew who opposed the Zionists.

“I remember you well, sir” I told him. “I even remember how you were beaten near the post office.”

“But why do you address me so officially?” he asked.

“How can I not address a person with a gray beard officially?” I replied.

“If you had stayed here in the shtetl, you’d have a gray beard too,” he said.

“What about fights? Do they still beat people near the post office?” I asked.

“Those days are over,” he answered. “There’s no one left to beat, and nothing to fight over. We are all Zionists, because we would all run away from here at the first opportunity.”

“And what about the pogroms by the Arabs?”

He laughed.

“Why are you laughing?”

“A Galician Jew afraid of pogroms?” he asked. “On the contrary — if the Arabs are organizing pogroms, we should go there immediately to fight them.”

“And what about Birobidzhan?” I asked.

“What, do we lack another galut?” he replied.

“As long as the Jews there do not suffer for being Jews,” I said.

“I assure you,” he said, “you won’t find a single Jew here — even in the greatest need — who would want to go to Birobidzhan. Everyone here wants to go to Palestine, even the rich ones. Everyone here is ready to go to Eretz Israel, everyone.”

I stood there for a while, lost in thought about what he had said. Why, then, was there so much excitement in New York about Birobidzhan? On my way from New York, I had met an American who was traveling to visit Birobidzhan. Yet here in Poland I hadn’t encountered a single Jew who wanted to go there. In truth, Birobidzhan wasn’t meant for American Jews — it was intended for Polish Jews.

While I stood there lost in thought, the postman finally emerged. He carried a bundle containing several letters. Without pausing, he hurried off with the mail, and immediately the Jews rushed after him.

I stood and watched the scene unfold. First, I noticed how few letters there were, as if that was all the postman had for the entire town. Second, I was struck by the arrogance of the Polish postman. It would have cost him nothing to stop and tell a couple of Jews whether he had a letter for them or not. If a postman had run off like that with the letters in my day, he would have been torn to pieces. He wouldn’t have even dared.

The Jews came back from chasing the postman, out of breath and empty-handed.

“I ran for nothing,” one said. “I was waiting for a letter from relatives in America. If they don’t write, it won’t come.”

“I knew I wouldn’t get anything,” another added. “My relatives in America haven’t written to me in years — they’ve completely forgotten about me. Yet I come to the post office every day. Maybe someone will remember me, maybe. And anyway, I have no other hope.”

“I tell you,” said the third, “if they only knew how important their letters are to us, they would write more often. But they don’t know.”

“And what good are letters anyway?” I asked. “When they send money, I understand that. But letters?”

“A letter is good too,” said my friend — the one who had once been beaten at the post office.

“What’s the use of it without money?” I pressed.

“Because you can get a loan with it,” he replied. “Once, thanks to a letter from a relative, I received money for trade and for what I needed.”

“But they don’t know what a letter from America means here,” one of them explained to me.

So, I left the post office together with the other Jews. Their words stirred me deeply, urging me to explain, when I returned to America, just how much those letters truly meant to them.

Further reading:

  • Shanes, Joshua (2012) Diaspora Nationalism and Jewish Identity in Habsburg Galicia. Cambridge University Press.
  • Seth L. Wolitz, (2002) Forging a Hero for a Jewish Stage: Goldfadn’s Bar Kokhba, Shofar, Vol. 20, No. 3: 53-65.
  • Kuhn R. (2002) The tradition of Jewish anti – Zionism in the Galician socialist movement. Refereed paper presented to the Jubilee conference of the Australasian Political Studies Association Australian National University. Canberra, 1–21.

Glossary:

Modern identity in the context of modern Jewish history in Galicia, this term refers to the period from 1848 to the Holocaust. The starting point is marked by the Spring of Nations (1848), when Jews in the Habsburg Empire first began advocating for the abolition of discriminatory anti-Jewish laws. Over time, this activism evolved into a broader willingness to defend Jewish national interests, which laid the foundation for the emergence of modern political parties. At its core, modern identity signifies a profound shift in Jewish self-perception: a move away from a purely religious understanding of self. This transformation was expressed through new conceptions of personal and collective identity, culture, and traditions, as well as an active commitment to defending civil rights and asserting Jewish political agency.

Beit midrash (בית מדרש, literally “house of study” or “house of learning”). A traditional Jewish educational institution where adult men and adolescent boys study the Torah, Talmud, and other sacred texts. It serves as a public space for voluntary learning, typically after completing cheder (elementary religious school), and is often compared culturally to a yeshiva, the next level of education. Often, the beit midrash is located near the synagogue.

Bar Kokhba (בר כוסבה). A historical figure who, according to Jewish tradition and legend, led the major Jewish revolt against Roman rule in 132–135 CE. The practice of celebrating and commemorating the Jewish struggle against oppressors began in the 1880s, initiated by early Jewish nationalists (as opposed to the religious interpretation of suffering). Together with the renewed emphasis on Hanukkah, the image of Simon Bar Kokhba became a key symbol of Jewish national revival. It was particularly prominent in modern Jewish theater.

Son-in-law on kest (אן איידעם אויף קעסט, Yiddish: an eydem oyf kest). In traditional rabbinical Judaism, a tradition when piety and well-being family maintained their own son in law during his continuing studies of Torah after marriage. For several years, he would be fully supported by his wife’s family.

Maskil, maskilim (מַשְׂכִּיל, from Hebrew: “educated” or “enlightened”). The term refers to the supporters of the Jewish Enlightenment movement.

Galut (גָּלוּת, from Hebrew: “exile”). In Jewish history and philosophy, galut denotes the condition of Jewish life in the diaspora, outside the Land of Israel.

Od lo avoda. A humorous, mocking reference to the famous Zionist hymn Hatikvah (later the national anthem of Israel).

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Documents (2)

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Excerpt from Chone Gottesfeld’s travelogue ‘My Trip to Galicia’, dedicated to Galician town of Skala (1937)
Returning three decades after his emigration, journalist Chone Gottesfeld of the New York Yiddish newspaper Forverts (פֿאָרווערטס) found his hometown of Skala—today known as Skala-Podilska—in a state of prolonged decline. According to the 1900 census, the town had 5,638 inhabitants, of whom Jews made up nearly half (2,494). By the time of the last census in 1931, Skala’s population had fallen to 4,017, with just 1,460 Jews remaining. More broadly, towns across Galicia never recovered from the devastation of the First World War. During the interwar period, their main source of income—trade with the Russian Empire—had become impossible. As Gottesfeld’s account makes clear, the local population now had virtually no means of subsistence....
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Excerpt from Chone Gottesfeld’s travelogue My Trip to Galicia (1937): “The shtetl is dying out. And this is not the only shtetl in Galicia.”
This excerpt continues journalist Chone Gottesfeld’s reflections on his hometown of Skala, which he left thirty years earlier when he emigrated to America. After visiting Galicia in 1936, he wrote a travelogue whose impressions were first published in the newspaper Forverts (Forward, official Yiddish title: פֿאָרווערטס) and later released as a separate book. It is clear that one of his implicit aims was to encourage financial support for Galician Jews, which is why he focuses primarily on describing their hardships in detail.   In this passage, the author highlights the main factors behind the town’s decline, particularly demographic changes driven by economic hardship and recurring epidemics. The head of the Jewish community explains...
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Worked on the material:
Research, comment, translation from Yiddish

Nadia Skokova

Translation into English

Yuliia Kulish

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